Four Pounds of Flour

http://fourpoundsflour.blogspot.com/

This blog focuses on the cuisine of America during the 18th and 19th centuries. The author, Sarah Lohman, is an amazing woman who provides her readership not only with scintillating prose, but also includes video of her cooking in her apartment in Queens. Her thesis was to create a temporary restaurant reinterpreting historic cuisine for a contemporary audience (something the historical re-enactors in my readership can appreciate).

I very much enjoy her writing and hope that you will give her a look.

Roman Texts Online

The online source for some of the Roman writings that I have been using in my recent chicken research is Lacus Curtius. Not everything has been translated into English, so you are now warned. There is a breadth of topics covered in the available texts, but for my purposes, it is the online home of the copies of Cato and Varro’s work that I am using.

IACP Cookbook Award Finalists

The 2010 IACP (International Association of Culinary Professionals) Cookbook Award Finalists have been announced.

This year, the IACP has a “People’s Choice” award. Follow this link to cast your vote.

American
“DamGoodSweet”
Authors: David Guas and Raquel Pelzel
Publisher: The Taunton Press, Inc.

“My New Orleans: The Cookbook”
Author: John Besh
Publisher: Andrews McMeel Publishing, LLC

“New American Table”
Authors: Marcus Samuelsson and Heidi Walters
Publisher: John Wiley & Sons, Inc.

“Real Cajun”
Authors: Donald Link and Paula Disbrowe
Publisher: Clarkson Potter

Baking: Savory or Sweet
“All Cakes Considered”
Author: Melissa Gray
Publisher: Chronicle Books (China)

“My Bread”
Authors: Jim Lahey and Rick Flaste
Publisher: W.W. Norton

“Rose’s Heavenly Cakes”
Author: Rose Levy Beranbaum
Publisher: John Wiley & Sons, Inc.

Chefs and Restaurants
“Ad Hoc At Home”
Authors: Thomas Keller and Dave Cruz
Publisher: Artisan Books

“Bottega Favorita”
Author: Frank Stitt
Publisher: Artisan Books

“How to Roast a Lamb”
Author: Michael Psilakis
Publisher: Little, Brown and Company

Children, Youth and Family
“Baking Kids Love”
Authors: Cindy Mushet and Sur La Table
Publisher: Andrews McMeel Publishing, LLC

“Mad Hungry”
Author: Lucinda Scala Quinn
Publisher: Artisan Books

“Williams-Sonoma Family Meals”
Author: Maria Helm Sinskey
Publisher: Oxmoor House

Compilations
“Cooking Light Way to Cook”
Authors: Editors of Cooking Light
Publisher: Oxmoor House

“Gourmet Today”
Author: Ruth Reichl
Publisher: Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing

“Southern Living Comfort Food”
Authors: Editors of Southern Living
Publisher: Oxmoor House

Culinary History
“Chocolate: History, Culture and Heritage”
Authors: Louis Grivetti and Howard-Yana Shapiro
Publisher: John Wiley & Sons

“From Demon to Darling: A Legal History of Wine in America”
Author: Richard Mendelson
Publisher: University of California Press

“Of Sugar and Snow: A History of Ice Cream Making”
Author: Jeri Quinzio
Publisher: University of California Press

First Book: The Julia Child Award
“Seasonal Spanish Food”
Author: Jose Pizarro
Publisher: Kyle Cathie (England)

“The Brazilian Table”
Authors: Yara Castro Roberts and Richard Roberts
Publisher: Gibbs Smith, Publisher

“The New Portuguese Table: Exciting Flavors From Europe’s Western Coast”
Author: David Leite
Publisher: Clarkson Potter

Food and Beverage Reference/Technical
“The Deluxe Food Lover’s Companion”
Author: Ron Herbst
Publisher: Barron’s Educational Series, Inc.

“The Fundamental Techniques of Pastry Arts”
Author: The French Culinary Institute
Publisher: Harry N. Abrams, Inc.

“Why Italians Love to Talk about Food”
Author: Elena Kostioukovitch
Publisher: Farrar, Straus and Giroux

Food Photography and Styling
“Hot and Hot Fish Club: A Celebration of Food, Family & Tradition”
Authors: Chris Hastings and Idie Hastings
Photographer: Jason Wallis
Stylist: Chris Hastings
Editor: Geoffrey Stone
Publisher: Running Press Book Publishers

“Restaurant Nicholas: The Cookbook”
Authors: Nicholas Harary and Peter Zuorick
Photographer: Steve Legato
Stylist: Chris Fenison
Editor: Joe D. Angelo
Publisher: Pediment Publishing (Canada)

“Williams-Sonoma Cooking for Friends”
Authors: Alison Attenborough and Jamie Kimm
Photographer: Petrina Tinslay
Stylists: Alison Attenborough and Jamie Kimm
Editors: Sarah Putman Clegg and Sharon Silva
Publisher: Oxmoor House

General
“Get Cooking”
Author: Mollie Katzen
Publisher: HarperStudio

“Stephanie Alexander’s Kitchen Garden Companion”
Author: Stephanie Alexander
Publisher: Penguin Group (Australia)

“Williams-Sonoma Family Meals”
Author: Maria Helm Sinskey
Publisher: Oxmoor House

Health and Special Diet
“Golden Door Cooks at Home: Favorite Recipes from the Celebrated Spa”
Authors: Dean Rucker and Marah Stets
Publisher: Clarkson Potter

“Lucid Food: Cooking for an Eco-Conscious Life”
Author: Louisa Shafia
Publisher: Ten Speed Press

“The Cancer-Fighting Kitchen: Nourishing, Big-Flavor Recipes for Cancer Treatment and Recovery”
Authors: Rebecca Katz and Mat Edelson
Publisher: Celestial Arts, an imprint of Ten Speed Press

International
“Mastering the Art of Chinese Cooking”
Author: Eileen Yin-Fei Lo
Publisher: Chronicle Books (China)

“Seven Fires”
Authors: Francis Mallmann and Peter Kaminsky
Publisher: Artisan Books

“The Songs of Sapa”
Author: Luke Nguyen
Publisher: Kay Scarlett
Publishing Company: Murdoch Books (Australia)

Literary Food Writing
“Appetite City: A Culinary History of New York”
Author: William Grimes
Publisher: North Point Press / FSG

“The Sweet Life in Paris”
Author: David Lebovitz
Publisher: Broadway Books

“Waste”
Author: Tristram Stuart
Publisher: W.W. Norton

Professional Kitchens
“Baking and Pastry: Mastering the Art and Craft 2nd Ed.”
Author: The Culinary Institute of America
Publisher: John Wiley & Sons, Inc.

“How to Bake Bread: The Five Families of Bread”
Author: Michael Kalanty
Publisher: Red Seal Books

“International Cuisine”
Author: The International Culinary Schools at The Art Institutes
Publisher: John Wiley & Sons, Inc.

Single Subject
“Asian Dumplings: Mastering Gyoza, Spring Rolls, Samosas, and More”
Author: Andrea Nguyen
Publisher: Ten Speed Press

“Go Fish”
Author: Al Brown
Publisher: Random House (New Zealand)

“Seven Fires”
Authors: Francis Mallmann and Peter Kaminsky
Publisher: Artisan Books

Wine, Beer or Spirits
“The Finest Wines of Champagne: A Guide to the Best Cuvées, Houses, and Growers”
Author: Michael Edwards
Publisher: University of California Press

“The King of Vodka”
Author: Linda Himelstein
Publisher: Harper

“World Whiskey”
Author: Charles Maclean
Publisher: DK Publishing

Beer Barm Bread

Some days planning is over-rated. I was standing in the kitchen of a friend and watching them bottle the Stout that they had made and realized that I was looking at a ton of yeast that I could be making bread out of. I asked for the barm and was gifted two containers full of beer and barm. Originally it was thought that it would take up to 72 hours to settle, but it took until the next morning and I immediately started looking for recipes and found the following:

http://bewitchingkitchen.com/2009/09/09/barm-bread/

The first instruction is:
Heat the beer to 160F, remove from the heat and quickly add the flour. Transfer to a bowl and allow it to cool to 68F, then add your white levain.

This would kill off any of the live yeast and then re-populate it with the yeast from the levain. I decided that I would try this method, as well as simply feeding the barm with flour and water like I would any starter. I put 250g of barm in each container and followed the heating instructions for one (adding 1 T commercial yeast rather than a levain, because I didn’t have a levain) and just fed the other. They were labled “heated” and “unheated”.

I really need better names.

Notes:
2/2
The heated starter, because of the amount of yeast in it, was really bubbly and vigorous. It tripled in volume in about an hour, surprising me greatly. The unheated one was bubbly, but the overall appearance was smoother. The heated starter collapsed about an hour after it trebled.

2/3
Added 1/2 c bread flour and 1/2 c water at around 8:00 a.m.
About 50 minutes later, the heated starter was very bubbly and the unheated one was increasing at a rate of about half the amount of the heated starter.
At 10:00 a.m. the heated starter was very bubbly and the unheated starter was now increasing at the same rate.
At about 11:00 a.m., I started following the instructions to make bread. I used Jennifer Heise’s recipe for barm bread (http://www.gallowglass.org/jadwiga/SCA/cooking/recipes/bread1.html) with some modifications for the unheated yeast. I did not add honey and did not add baking powder.
At 1:50 p.m. the unheated yeast bread had increased by half.

At around 3:00 p.m. it was time to knead the heated yeast bread and realize that I really needed to name these things because the whole heated/unheated thing is really confusing to write. Based upon the recommendation of a good friend, I shall now refer to them as “Thor” (heated) and “Grim” (unheated).

I put the raising bread into the refrigerator overnight around 4:00 p.m. as my window for bread making was closing and I wanted to slow everything down. The most notable thing that happened was that the starters were both continuing to double and bubble well into the night. I checked them before bed and they were both just over doubled (not quite trebled). The activity had slowed by morning. I fed them again on 2/4 with 1/2 c bread flour and 1/4 c filtered water and they commenced to bubbling again in about 30 minutes.

2/4
The bread came out of the refrigerator around 8:30 a.m. and Thor was smooth and beautiful and looked ready for baking. I heated the oven to 450F and stuck a dutch oven into it for 40 minutes. Then I dusted the bottom of the pot with corn meal and plopped the raw dough into the hot pot, put the cover on, placed the whole shebang into the oven, and dropped the temperature to 425F. I set the timer for 30 minutes and walked away.

About fifteen minutes into the baking time I realized that I had made a fatal error in both loaves - I forgot to add salt. This will decrease the flavor in the final loaves, but as I will be doing this again soon, I can fix it the second time around.

When I took the lid of the pot off, I was greeted by a beautiful, rounded loaf that smelled absolutely amazing. I put the bread back in for another 15 minutes, uncovered, and gloated to a friend online that I would have fresh bread in 15 minutes.

Why did I cover and uncover my bread? Crust. There are a few methods for gaining an awesome, crispy crust and one of them is trapping the steam generated by the liquid cooking off of the bread with a pot lid. You can also spray the top of the loaf with water and/or put a cup of ice cubes in another container on the bottom rack of the oven when you put the bread into the oven. I’ve used all of these methods and they all work very well.

While Thor was being baked, I put Grim on top of the stove in a bread pan and allowed it to come up to room temperature with the intent to bake it when Thor was done.

I got impatient, and good thing, because Thor was ready to come out of the oven five minutes before I had set the timer. The bread needed salt, but we knew that. It had a nice crumb and was spongy and very tasty. You could faintly smell the beer, but the taste wasn’t there.

I slung Grim into the oven at 425F and set the timer for an hour. In retrospect, it should have been more like 45 minutes at 450F. The crumb was similar to Thor but was darker and a bit more dense, which is more because of the wheat flour than anything else. I have to wait for my husband to get home from work for a final determination on the bread’s tastyness to people who aren’t me.

To recap the recipes:

THOR
This is the heated and repopulated starter.
The recipe used was: http://bewitchingkitchen.com/2009/09/09/barm-bread/
The dough was refrigerated overnight to slow the raising process.
I then heated up a pan at 450F for 40 minutes, put some corn meal in the bottom of it and put the dough into the pot.
The oven door was closed and the heat was dropped to 425F and the bread cooked, with the lid on the pot, for 30 minutes. Then the lid was removed and the bread was cooked for another 10 minutes.

GRIM
This is the barm that was fed and nothing else done to/with it.
The recipe used was: http://www.gallowglass.org/jadwiga/SCA/cooking/recipes/bread1.html
The dough was refrigerated overnight to slow the raising process.
This dough was put in a standard bread pan and cooked at 425F for 45 minutes.

In both cases, I checked to make sure that the bread was 210F internally before slicing them open.

Menu and Update

The chicken documentation is not complete, but is due for review by the competition committee on 7 February 2010, so I will be working on edits and generally making sense of something that has been very difficult for me to write.

I have a good friend that I have neglected to invite to dinner in too damn long, so I am fixing that this Saturday by making a medieval feast for him, his girlfriend, and another couple.  The recipes are all going to be out of the dutch cookbook and will be served as traditional courses, rather than in the medieval fashion as I don’t have the time to do that many dishes at this time.

The current menu is:
Onion Sop
Capon in the Spanish Manner
Stewed Spinach

The original recipes and the translation (Copyright, Jennifer Strobel):
19 Om een ajuynsoppe te maken.
Neemt ajuyn, snijt die in schijven ende roost hem in olye met de corsten van de brooden. Als dit nu wat gesoden heeft, so doet er wat azijns by, wat byers, wat suyckers ende wat gengeberpoeder. Laet dit tesamen sieden totdat het begint dick te werden ende alsdan in de schotel ghedaen ende gegeten.

19 How to make onion sop.
Take onion, cut it in slices and roast it in oil with crusts of bread. When this now has cooked a while, so put therewith some vinegar, some beer, some sugar and some ginger powder. Leave this together to boil until it begins to become thick and then place it in the dish to be then eaten.

85 Om eenen capoen te braden op het Spaensche.
Neemt een half pont rozijnen ende soveel versch speck alst u belieft ende soveel loocx als ghy wilt. Cappet ooc met het speck wel cleyn, mengelet dan met de rozijnen ende steket tsamen in den capoen. Steeckt den capoen dan aen den spitte ende droopt hem wel met boter ende dienet ter tafelen.

85 How to roast a capon in the Spanish [manner].
Take a half pound of raisins and as much fresh bacon as you please and as much garlic as you want. Chop it together with the bacon very small, then mix with the raisins and put it in the capon. Then put the capon on the spit and baste it well with butter and serve to the diners.

205 Om spinagie te stoven.
Neempt spinagie ende sietse morwe. Dout dan t’water schoon uut. Neemt dan geschelde appelen. Captse wel cleyn met de spinagie. Setse tesamen te stoven met wijn ende een weynich verjuys, suycker, gengheber ende boter. Laet dit tsamen stoven totdat ghenoech is. Rechtet dan in schotelkens ende stroyt er gengeber over. Dientse dan dese spijse. Ghy moecht oock ronde taertkens backen ofte ronde coecxkens in de boter gefruyt.

205 To stew spinach.
Take spinach and boil it soft. Then remove the clean water. Then take peeled apples. Chop very small with the spinach. Set together to stew with wine and a bit of verjuice, sugar, ginger and butter. Let this stew together until is enough. Dress it then in small dishes and strew thereover ginger. Then serve this food. You might also bake small round tarts, or small round cakes fried in butter.

The redactions will be posted as I create them. The one for the chicken is going to be a challenge as this is the dish that I make when I want to impress company as it’s really a small amount of work for a huge culinary payoff. I’m excited about making it for non-SCAdian friends and getting their take on the flavors and textures.

My guests are providing dessert and I am excited to try it. I love when people share food with me that they have made, no matter how complicated or simple, I love sharing that experience.

The other projects that I am working on right now will get updates of their own, especially the updates to the Frisian food research that I will be presenting at the Royal University of the Midrealm on 20 February 2010. I will also be presenting what I learned while doing chicken research and participating in the suburban farming roundtable.

As usual, I have little updates and links of interest posted on the Medieval Cooking Facebook Page, so if you haven’t added the page, please consider doing so.

I am hoping to have another update in about a week with more details about the chicken research paper, with the paper then being available after I have turned it in for review on 7 February 2010. Look here for that and there will be some non-food updates while I get ready to participate in The Pent at Ice Dragon.

happy new year

It’s the first day of 2010 and I am engaging in the same New Years activities as many of you: recovering from being up very late last night and reviewing my list of tasks for the upcoming quarter:

January 2010
-Submit research paper for the competition in March to editorial team.
-Make final revisions to paper after editorial team reviews it.
-Use more recent information to update the Frisian Cuisine research for presentation in February.
-Build a class around the research paper.
-Continue working on Pentathlon entries (The Ice Dragon Pentathlon is the premier A&S competition in my Kingdom).

February 2010
-Complete updates to Frisian Cuisine paper and the Chicken Research paper for the classes that I’m teaching at RUM.
-Write up documentation for the entries to Ice Dragon Pentathlon.
-Teach at RUM on 20 February.

March 2010
-Clean up documentation and complete all Pent activities.
-Compete in the Pentathlon on 29 March.

April 2010
-Breathe.
-Plan for 2nd Quarter of 2010

Most importantly, I need to make updates a bigger priority. For the duration of 2010, I promise one update every two weeks. There may be more, but there won’t be fewer, and it will either be something that I’m currently working on, some philosophy about the creative process, or a recipe or redaction. There will be more updates on the facebook group as I have finally found a reasonable way to do that without hitting more than three pages to get things updated across the board.

I am continuing steady progress on the research and I am happy to share what I am learning along the way. While I am focused on that, you will be also be seeing some older work or some updated information on older works, including an article about my past research and how some of it is horribly flawed and how I deal with that - because not everything I do is perfect and learning from bad conclusions is important.

I hope that your year is a productive and happy one and I appreciate your readership and look forward to more interaction in the upcoming months.

The Origins of the Domestic Chicken

The history of the domesticated chicken is going well, at least the parts that I have completed. I was editing the section that touched upon the ancestor of the domestic chicken - commonly held to be the red jungle fowl. This piece of information had been given to me as an uncontested fact from the first time I had asked the question. When I was writing it, I wanted to cite an authoritative source so did a simple search in the hopes of just finding a reasonable citation and then moving on. What I found was far more interesting and made me very sad that I hadn’t spent more time paying attention in biology class.

In a couple of periodicals, there was a reference to a Swedish study (”Identification of the Yellow Skin Gene Reveals a Hybrid Origin of the Domestic Chicken”) that was published in the Public Library of Science’s Genetics Journal. The article is available here. This research is the first

This research says that the yellow skin gene, which is a common gene in domestic chickens, is not found in red jungle fowl but are found in grey jungle fowl. This is the first definitive proof that there is a hybrid origin to the domestic chicken. Previously, Dr. F. B. Hutt had posited that

This genetic debate aside, what is clear is that domesticated chickens were likely to have been brought to the West on the same routes as the spice trade. This would have been the most logical way for chickens to have moved into Western Europe. It would also be logical to assume that there were chickens in the Near East and China that may have been interbred with those chickens, providing the the variety of characteristics that they eventually displayed. Unfortunately, I have found no documentation of this, nor have I found documentation that mentions the specifics of the early introduction of chickens in Western Europe. The first documentation that I can find about chickens is in 77 ACE in Platina’s “The Historie of Nature”, which I will discuss in a later update.

Lost in Translation

The last few weeks have been working through my research paper. It has grown significantly from the documentation of a single breed of chicken and is now a survey of domesticated chickens since the earliest records of domestication through to the latter part of the 17th century (I am using Digby, which was published in 1669). This is, as you may imagine, a gigantic project that is taking up a great deal of time to write. There are times that I feel like I have my arms around it and then more information comes in and I find out that I was only seeing one part of the thing. It’s like deciding that you’ve caught an elephant by grabbing its toe.

This means less time to update here and update at Facebook, and I feel terribly neglectful of that and wish that there were just more hours in the day. Updates will be sporadic for a while longer while I beat the piece into shape and have it edited and ready to go to the judges for their review.

What I want to share with you today, and why the title is what it is, is that I am also working on a translation for the cooking portion of the competition. The recipe is one from Carolus Battus’ work “Eenen seer schonen ende excellenten cocbok”

Original Recipe:
1. Om eyeren te vollen
Neemt herde eyeren, peltsse, ende clooftse in den midden ende neemt de doyeren uut. Meemt dan groen cruyt, te weten: roosmarijn, margeleyn, ende diergelijcke. Neemt dan eenen pot waters, ende letet op de seude commen, doet er dan u cruyt in, ende latet een walleken ofte twee opsieden. Neemt dan het cruyt weder uut het water, ende doetet in eenen mortier, ende doet er de herde eyeren by, stampet tesamen wel cleyn ende doet er dan by: suycker, cannell, foeylie, gyneber, gepoedert, ende roeret wel ondereen. Alsdan so vollet hol van den witte der eyeren met desen cruyde, elck half ey besonder. Alsdan soo neempt een panne met boter, laetse bruyn werdern, endelegt de halve gevolde eyeren daerin, met het cruyt tegen de panne, ende laetse so roosten. Ghy moechtse oock wel om keeran, ende als u dunckt datse genoech zijn, so dientse ter tafelen, ende strooyt er suycher op.

Translation (in progress) by Jennifer Strobel
1. To make eggs
Take hard egg, peel and cut in the middle and take the yolk out. Take then green herbs to soak: rosemary, marjoram, and such. Take then a pot [or quart] of water and leave in the steam bowl. Put there then you herbs in and let a small boiler or two [opsieden] take then the herbs again out the water and put in a morter and put there the hard egg [by] stamp [tesamen] much smaller and put there then [by] sugar, cinnamon, mace, ginger [melted?] and stir much together also. Thus fill hollow of the white of the egg with the same herbs each half [ey] separately also as take a pan with butter let brown become and lay the half filled egg therein with the herbs toward the pan and leave as roast you might also much how turn and also you think that enough be. Thus serve for the table and strew there sugar on.

Discussion
This sounds like it’s hard boiled eggs that have had the yolks removed, mixed with herbs and then put in a mortar where it’s mashed with additional cinnamon, mace, and ginger. Then the egg is re-stuffed and fried in butter. The final product is then garnished with sugar.

There are a number of words that I need to find, which is a matter of doing some poking around to locate them. The one that is especially interesting to me is the word “tesamen” as it’s seemingly superfluous in the flow of the sentence. We shall see.

The big decision is going to be what herbs to use. I will be making this dish in the spring and that limits the available fresh herbs…well, because I’m not entirely okay with explaining away using out-of-season ingredients because I live in the modern world. I could grow rosemary and marjoram inside of the house and chervil should be available locally. Chervil is seasonal for spring and it is documentable to the Roman era (the Romans purportedly spread chervil throughout the empire), so I should be able to find evidence that it was in the Netherlands during the 16th century.

It’s very much a first step on a much longer road, but this translation is not nearly as difficult as some others I’ve done and the missing words aren’t impossible to find. Once I finish the research paper, I can share with you the details about the breed of chicken that I am raising and whose eggs will be used for the recipe that I will be using in the competition.

When Good Documentation Goes Bad

Let me start with my being thankful that my daughter only has one appendix - which was removed a month and a half ahead of schedule on Friday - because we may now stay out of hospital for longer than a week before going back.

I was considering what to do for an update for today and realized that the only thing that is happening in my world right now is chicken documentation. It being the traditional month for novel writing, I have dedicated myself to producing 400 words a night on the research - and ran into a brick wall on Monday night. My word count is where I want it to be, but it’s not good work, it’s confusing, jumbled work.

The problem is that I have a lot of information spread time-wise from the Roman Empire to 1602 and covers Europe and parts of the Near East. I can tell you about how chicken coops were similar in Rome and in Palestine during the same period of time, and that the coops described in thirteenth century France were about the same. I can tell you that the way that the Romans understood how to feed chickens (differently for meat and for egg laying) was the same understanding that medieval people had throughout the entirety of our period of study and even somewhat agreed on what was best to feed chickens for each purpose.

I can tell you lots of things, but not in a way that moves gracefully from time period to time period. I have decided to scrap my original way of accumulating data and have moved to the 3×5 card method, which has already yielded a bit more order and has created a few segues from time period to time period that I am more pleased with, but it is still in the frustrating phase.

So, there will be a lot of fits and starts of my research paper here. I have a solid grasp of the information, it’s just not forming itself well enough to be meaningful to anyone, including me, so I will share with all of you while I go through the process of writing the paper.

So, some more frequent updates for a while and until life gets entirely back to normal - Thanksgiving and Christmas are coming up for us, which will make my schedule exciting again. There should be more food experimentation as I also have a dish that I am entering in the same competition as the research paper and need to write the documentation for that, which is a much easier prospect because it’s food documentation and that’s familiar and makes sense.

Feast Booklet - Agincourt

This is the feast booklet for the feast that I did at Agincourt. The skill that I need to figure out is recording everything while I’m doing it. Often when I’m in the midst of doing a feast, I just make the food happen, rather than recording everything. My ability to reproduce my own food has been excellent, so it doesn’t really encourage my writing things down. Which doesn’t help me communicate things better, and that’s what I have been working on. It may be a case of doing one means that I will only detract from the other and may never improve on my skills as a booklet-writer as I’d rather be a good cook than a good feast booklet writer.

The booklet is in pdf form here. Please visit the Adobe Reader site and download the free pdf reader if you don’t already have one.

It is in booklet form, so if you print it out, you will get several 8.5″x11″ pages that you can fold in half and have the booklet. The information is already available here in pieces, but the booklet provides a few of the recipes.

The recipes are:

Seeded Soup
Original (Le Menagier de Paris, transcribed by Jérome Pichon):
GRAVÉ OU SEYMÉ est potage d’iver. Pelez oignons et les cuisiez tous hachiés, puis les frisiez en un pot; or convient avoir vostre poullaille fendue sur le dos et hallée sur le gril au feu de charbon, ou se c’est veel, aussi; et qu’ils soient mis par morceaulx soit veel, ou par quartiers se c’est poulaille, et les mettez avec les oignons dedans le pot; puis avoir pain blanc harlé sur le gril et trempé au boullon d’autre char: et puis broyez gingembre, clou, graine et poivre long, deffaire de vertjus et de vin, sans couler, mettre d’une part: puis broyer le pain et couler par l’estamine et mettre au brouet, et tout couler ensemble et boulir; puis drécier.
Nota que l’en dit seurfrire pour ce que c’est en un pot, et se c’estoit en une paelle de fer, l’en diroit frire.

Translation (Janet Hinson):
SEEDED SOUP is a winter soup. Peel onions and cook them all chopped up, then fry them in a pot; it is appropriate to have your poultry split through the back and browned on the grill over a coal fire, or if it is veal, the same; and whether it is veal cut in pieces or chicken cut in quarters, put it with the onions in the pot; then have white bread browned on the grill and moistened with some other meat stock: and then grind ginger, clove, grain and long pepper, mix with verjuice and wine, without sieving, and set aside: then grind the bread and put through the sieve and add to the soup, and strain it all together and boil; then serve.

Note that we say ’sur-fry’ when it is in a pot, and ‘fry’ in an iron skillet.

Redaction (Jennifer Strobel):
6 cups chicken stock
2 cups onions, quartered and thinly sliced
4-5 lbs chicken, any parts will do, bone in
3 T olive oil
1 T salt
1 T powdered ginger
1 t powdered cloves
1 t ground long pepper (I used my mortar and pestle to grind it)

Take your chicken, rinse and dry it.
Cook your chicken on a grill or cook the pieces in a cast iron pan. The idea is to get some char and get the chicken cooked the whole way through. Using a grill is closer to the original recipe, however, if you don’t want to deal with the grill, just use the cast iron pan. You can get some nice flavor that way as well.
I used no seasoning on the chicken.
When the chicken is cooked through, cut the chicken into an approximate 1/4″ dice.
Put the olive oil into a pot on the stove.
When the oil is hot, add the onions.
Cook the onions until they are getting soft, then add the salt.
Continue cooking the onions until they are translucent and there is some liquid sweated out.
Add the chicken and mix thoroughly.
Add the ginger, cloves, and long pepper.
Mix again.
Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil.
Reduce the heat and then simmer for about 30 minutes to blend the flavors.
According to the original recipe, this soup would have been thickened with bread crumbs. This texture is typically found to be unpleasant to the modern palate. For this reason alone I did not include it in the redaction.

Pancakes
Dry Ingredients:
1 cup wheat flour
½ cup spelt flour
2 heaping teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon sugar
a pinch of salt

Wet Ingredients:
1 1/3 cup whole milk
2 eggs
2 tablespoons melted butter

Put the wet and then the dry ingredients into a blender and blend for a few seconds.
Turn off the blender and scrape down the sides with a spatula.
Blend for another couple of seconds, until everything is mixed together.
Scoop just short of ¼ cup of batter onto a hot griddle and cook until the edges of the pancake are dry and the top is covered in bubbles.
Flip the pancake for about 25 seconds and then take off of the griddle.

Pears in Wine
This is a recipe that I got from Katla Ulfeðinn, who served it at the Queen’s Rapier Tournament earlier this month.

Ingredients:
8 oz. Poached pears in light syrup (canned pears)
1 cup Bordeaux Wine
2 T Fresh ginger, grated

Drain the pears, reserving the syrup.
Mix the wine and syrup and warm in a saucepan.
Add the ginger.
When the wine mixture is warm, pour it over the pears.

Candied Almonds
This recipe is not one that I found through any period source. The process itself is simple and the ingredients are all traceable to the middle ages. The amount of sugar used, however, would be more likely to have happened in the sixteenth rather than the fourteenth century. Sugar was available to the French during the fourteenth century, however, the culinary use of sugar was not widespread until the fifteenth century . To be more correct for fourteenth century France, honey would have been used instead of sugar.

Ingredients:
3 c whole, unblanched, almonds
1 c white sugar
1 T ground nutmeg
1 ½ T ground cinnamon
1 t ground cloves
3 egg whites, lightly beaten

Preheat the oven to 300° Fahrenheit.
Mix together the sugar, nutmeg, cinnamon, and cloves in a one gallon baggie.
The almonds should first be put into the bowl with the egg whites and thoroughly coated.
Pour the coated almonds into the gallon baggie with the sugar and spices, seal the bag, and shake thoroughly to ensure that all of the almonds are coated.
Spread out the coated almonds onto a cookie sheet and put in the oven for 30 minutes.
Check the almonds, they should be mostly dry.
Be very careful while checking them at this point as the sugar has gotten very hot and will be sticky and lava-like.
They may need an additional 15 minutes to become completely dry.
Scrape into whatever container you’re going to keep them in.
I used a large, flat container and covered it loosely with aluminum foil for seven days.
For longer storage, I would recommend cooling the almonds either on parchment paper or on a rack and when they are completely cooled, transfer them to an airtight container.